【英文资料】揭秘韩国化妆品在中国吃香
韩国化妆品在中国吃香
Lolita Lempicka perfume – one of France’s top five selling fragrances – has a very Gallic essence.
洛俪塔(Lolita Lempicka)香水——法国前五名畅销香水之一——有着地道的高卢本。

  It is produced in the northern cathedral city of Chartres, and the chief executive of the company that makes it has won the Légion d’honneur for his services to the French economy.
  它的产地在有大教堂的法国北部城市——沙特尔(Chartres)。生产洛俪塔香水的公司的首席执行官因对法国经济所作的贡献而被授予荣誉军团勋章”(Légion d’honneur)

  韩国保养品But few French consumers know that AmorePacific, the rapidly expanding company behind Lolita Lempicka, is based 5,500 miles away in South Korea.
  然而,鲜有法国消费者知道,洛俪塔背后的爱茉莉太平洋(AmorePacific)——一家迅速扩张的公司——的总部在5500英里外的韩国。

  That is deliberate. After AmorePacific started its French operations in 1990, it soon learned that Made in Korea attracted sneers in elegant Parisian boutiques.
  这是经过深思熟虑的。1990年进入法国市场后,爱茉莉太平洋很快就发现,在典雅的巴黎精品店里,韩国制造只会招致嘲笑。


  But while its sales in the French market stagnate, South Korea’s biggest cosmetics company by sales is going on the offensive to wrest share from L’Oréal and Procter & Gamble in China.
  但是,虽然在法国市场上销售不振,爱茉莉太平洋在中国市场上却是攻势十足,正在从欧莱雅(L' Oréal)和宝洁(P&G)手中夺取市场份额。以销售额衡量,爱茉莉太平洋是韩国最大化妆品公司。

  Korean cosmetics have a marketable cachet in that country, in part thanks to actresses and singers from the “Korean wave” of films and music that have taken Asia by storm over the past decade.
  韩国化妆品在中国市场上很吃香,这部分得益于过去十年风靡亚洲的韩流电影和音乐中的女演员和歌手们。

  Revenue from the French unit last year rose only 0.4 per cent to Won95.7bn, ($86.2m) a
ccounting for only 5 per cent of AmorePacific’s Won2,059bn sales.
  去年,爱茉莉太平洋在法国市场上的营收仅小幅增长0.4%,至957亿韩元(合8620万美元),对集团营收(2.059万亿韩元)的贡献仅为5%

  By contrast, sales in China last year rose 21 per cent to Won143bn, up from Won66bn in 2007.
  相形之下,去年该公司在中国市场上的营收为1430亿韩元,比2007年营收(660亿韩元)增长21%

  AmorePacific admits it is still finding its feet in China compared with L’Oréal, whose sales in the country are 14 times higher than the Korean company’s at $1.38bn.
  爱茉莉太平洋承认,与欧莱雅相比,自己在中国仍在寻立足点。欧莱雅在中国的营收为13.8亿美元,是爱茉莉太平洋的15倍。

  Still, China lies at the heart of AmorePacific’s plans to increase international sales to 29
per cent of all revenue by 2015, from only 14 per cent now.
  不过,在爱茉莉太平洋的国际扩张计划中,中国市场处于核心地位。该公司的目标是到2015年把国际营收的贡献从当前的区区14%扩大至29%

  Its shares are 41 per cent foreign owned and net profit surged 26 per cent last year to Won285bn.
  该公司41%股权的由外资持有;去年实现净利润2850亿韩元,比上年大幅增长26%

  Lee Sun-geun, AmorePacific’s manager for international sales, says the company’s international operations only broke even in 2010 after heavy investments.
  该公司负责国际销售的经理Lee Sun-geun表示,由于之前投资额巨大,爱茉莉太平洋国际业务直到2010年才实现收支平衡。

  But he adds that there is now an opportunity to build momentum in China by launching its first luxury brand there and beginning door-to-door sales.
  但他接着表示,如今,通过在中国推出首个高档品牌和开展上门销售,爱茉莉太平洋在中国市场上有望加快步伐。

  Mr Lee says AmorePacific has approached China as a larger version of its domestic market.
  他表示,爱茉莉太平洋一直把中国作为韩国本土市场的扩大版。

  This has meant initially focusing on mid-priced lotions and face creams under brand names such as Laneige and Mamonde. Seoul has become a hot spot for Asian tourists flocking to buy foundations and creams.
  这意味着初期要侧重于兰芝(Laneige)和梦妆(Mamonde)等品牌的中等价位的润肤露和面霜。首尔已经成为亚洲旅游者蜂拥购买粉底霜和乳霜的热点地区之一。

  “After a phase in which we have built up brand awareness, we are now ready for a growth stage and to launch a premium brand for China,” he said.
  Lee Sun-geun表示:在前一阶段,我们建立起了品牌知名度。如今,我们准备迎来一个增长阶段,并在中国推出一个高档品牌。

  This week AmorePacific opened a shop in Beijing to sell Sulwhasoo, a luxury cosmetics range based on traditional herbal medicines.
  上周,爱茉莉太平洋在北京的一家雪花秀(Sulwhasoo)专卖店开张。雪花秀是一个采用传统草药的高档化妆品系列。

  It plans seven more such stores in Beijing and Shanghai department stores this year, taking heart from strong sales in Hong Kong.
  受到在香港市场上销售强劲的鼓舞,爱茉莉太平洋计划年内在北京和上海的百货商店再开设7家此类门店。

  Ahn Ha-young, analyst at Hanwha Securities in Seoul, says it will be difficult for AmorePacific to compete in China against L’Oréal, Estée Lauder and Shiseido, which are
investing heavily in marketing.
  首尔韩华证券(Hanwha Securities)分析师Ahn Ha-young表示,爱茉莉太平洋在中国很难与欧莱雅、雅诗兰黛(Estée Lauder)和资生堂(Shiseido)比拼,因为那些公司在营销上都投入了重金。

  “But I am optimistic that AmorePacific does have a differentiating factor in using cosmetics based on oriental medicine,” she says.
  但我感到乐观的一点是,爱茉莉太平洋在利用东方药物生产化妆品方面的确具有差异化优势。

  Door-to-door sales account for 30 per cent of revenue in Korea, and Mr Lee says AmorePacific has made a big advance by winning permission late last year for door-to-door sales in Shanghai, which will bring it into competition with US direct sellers Avon and Amway.
  在韩国,上门销售在总销售额中占30%的比重。Lee Sun-geun表示,爱茉莉太平洋去年
底在上海获准开展上门销售,这是一个重大进展,将使其与美国直销品牌雅芳(Avon)和安利(Amway)形成竞争。

  “But Chinese women tend to work in offices, so we do not expect as much from home visits as from office trips.”
  不过,中国女性一般会去单位上班,所以我们预计,拜访家庭带来的销售额将比不上拜访写字楼。

  Ms Ahn says she is confident that the Sulwhasoo range suits Chinese consumers, but cautions that AmorePacific has yet to prove it can build a big sales network and manage inventories there.
  Ahn Ha-young表示,她相信雪花秀系列适合中国消费者。但她警告称,爱茉莉太平洋尚需证明自己有能力在中国建立庞大的销售网络并管理库存。

  AmorePacific moved its Chinese production to Shanghai from Shenyang in 2002, but stil
l imports materials to ensure quality.
  2002年,爱茉莉太平洋将中国生产业务从沈阳迁移到了上海,但为了保证质量,中国生产业务至今仍在进口原材料。

  Mr Lee says he is seeking land for another factory in China. “We are the highest taxpayer in our area, so the Chinese government is actively looking to find land for us,” he says.
  Lee Sun-geun表示,他目前正在物地皮,计划在中国再开一家工厂。在我们所在的地区,我们是头号纳税大户,所以中国政府正在积极地为我们地。

  While AmorePacific does use Korean wave film stars to promote products, Mr Lee says such branding counts for less in China.
  虽然爱茉莉太平洋确实在利用韩流影星促销产品,但Lee Sun-geun表示,在中国,这种品牌推广手法不如在韩国管用。

  “Koreans are emotional consumers. The Chinese are more practical, prioritising scientific and dermatological testing.”
  韩国人是情绪型消费者,而中国人比较务实,她们更重视科学的皮肤测试。

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