掌握烹饪法国菜的艺术:葡萄酒
掌握烹饪法国菜的艺术：葡萄酒
菜肴就跟品尝它们的人儿一样，会在葡萄酒和烈性酒的刺激下兴奋起来，而且跟人一样，菜肴也有可能被酒搞得一塌糊涂。
第三十一页——第三十六页
第一节：烹调用葡萄酒
菜肴就跟品尝它们的人儿一样，会在葡萄酒和烈性酒的刺激下兴奋起来，而且跟人一样，菜肴也有可能被酒搞得一塌糊涂。无论是白葡萄酒，红葡萄酒，味美思（译注一，苦艾酒），马德拉酒（译注二）还是白兰地，成为烹饪中点睛之笔的往往不是那些会蒸发掉的酒精，而是口味。所以用于烹饪的葡萄酒或烈性酒一定得是好酒。如果果味过重，过酸，或是味道不怎么样的话，那么烹饪只会加重这种不好的口味，因为烹饪通常会缩减酒的体积，浓缩酒的口味。如果你不到合用的好酒，那就索性别用，因为差劲的酒会让普通的菜肴毁于一旦，让高级的菜品降低好几个档次。
White wine for cooking should be strong and dry, but never sour or fruity. A most satisfactory choice is white Macon, made from the Pinot Blanc or the Chardonnay grape. It has all the right qualities and, in France, is not expensive. As the right white wine is not as reasonable to acquire in America, we have found that a good, dry, white vermouth is an excellent substitute, and much better than the wrong kind of white wine. 
白葡萄酒
用于烹饪的白葡萄酒应该是浓醇的干白（译注三），绝不能有酸味或果味。用白比诺（Pinot Blanc）或霞多丽（Chardonnay）葡萄制成的马孔（Macon）白葡萄酒（译注四）是上上之选。这种酒作为烹饪用酒品质上乘，而且在法国并不贵。由于在美国不太容易到适合烹饪的白葡萄酒，我们最终发现干白味美思是很不错的替代品，比那些品种不对的白葡萄酒好多了。
1
A good, young, full-bodied red wine is the type you should use for cooking. In France you would pick a Macon, one of the lesser Burgundies, one of the more full-bodied regional Bordeaux such as St.-Emilion, or a good local wine having these qualities. 
红葡萄酒
烹饪用红葡萄酒应选择品质较好、浅龄且酒体丰满的（译注五）红葡萄酒。在法国你可以选勃艮第的偏低等级红酒，像马孔（Macon）葡萄酒；也可以选择酒体相对丰满的波尔多红酒，如圣埃米利（St.-Emilion，译注六），或者还可以选择其他品质相仿的本地葡萄酒。
Fortified wines, spirits, and liqueurs are used principally for final flavorings. As they must be of excellent quality they are always expensive; but usually only a small quantity is called for, so your supply should last quite a while. Here, particularly, if you do not want to spend the money for a good bottle, omit the ingredient or pick another recipe. 
强化酒，烈性酒和利口酒 （译注七）
强化酒，烈性酒和利口酒主要用于最后调味。由于对这类酒的品质要求很高，所以价钱总是
很贵，但一般每次只用一点儿，所以你的存货应该很能用上一阵子。这里特别要指出的是，如果你不想花太多钱在这上面去买瓶好酒，那你就直接跳过这一步或是选用别的菜谱吧。
朗姆酒和利口酒（译注八）是用在甜点上的。想要浓郁的朗姆风味，那牙买加黑朗姆酒是最佳选择。用利口酒的话常会点明要用橙子口味的，进口品牌中的标杆则有君度香橙酒（Cointreau），大马尼尔酒（Grand Marnier）和库拉索酒（Curacao） （译注九）。 1
马德拉酒和波特酒（译注十）一般是酱汁最后调味的关键，例如配火腿的马德拉褐酱汁或是波特酒浸鸡肉。这类酒要用原装进口的半干型酒，不过好公司出产的价格适中的明星酒倒也还可以用用。
雪莉酒和马尔萨拉酒在法式烹饪中并不常用。如果在本来要用马德拉酒或波特酒的地方用这些酒来代替，多半会让这些法式菜肴的口味变得不怎么正宗。
白兰地是法式烹饪中最常用的烈性酒，从甜点到酱汁，从肉汤到肉冻到火烤类菜肴都会用到。由于有些牌子的白兰地实在太差劲，所以这本书的菜谱中要用到白兰地时我们会特别指明要用干邑。我们不要求你买三星白兰地或优级（V.S.O.P）白兰地，但你用的白兰地口感至少要跟干邑相仿（译注十一）。
THE WONDERFUL THING about French wines is that they go so well with food. And there is always that enjoyable problem of just which of the many possible choices you should use for a particular occasion. If you are a neophyte wine drinker, the point to keep in mind in learning about which wine to serve with which dish is that the wine should complement the food and the food should accentuate and blend with the qualities of the wine. A robust wine overpowers the taste of a delicate dish, while a highly spiced dish will kill the flavor of a light wine. A dry wine tastes sour if drunk with a sweet dessert, and a red wine often takes on a fishy taste if served with fish. Great combinations of wine and food are unforgettable: kidneys and one of the great red Burgundies, where each rings reminiscent changes on the characteristics of the other; sole in one of the rich white wine sauces and a fine white Burgundy; souffle a la liqueur and a Chateau d' Yquem. And then there are the more simple pleasures of a stout red wine and a strong cheese, white wine and oysters, red wine and a beef stew, chilled rose and a platter of cold meats. Knowledge of wines is a lifetime hobby, and the only way to learn is to star! in drinking and enjoying them, comparing types, vintages, and good marriages of certain wines with certain foods.
第二节 葡萄酒和菜肴
法国葡萄酒最令人称道的一点是它跟菜肴总是配合的很好。在多种多样的选择中决定什么场合该配什么酒也总是一个让人津津乐道的话题。如果你还只是个品酒的新手，那一定要记住选酒的秘诀在于让葡萄酒成为菜肴的补充，让菜肴加强并融会葡萄酒的口感。口感过强的葡萄酒会盖过那些口感细腻的菜肴的味道，而超辣的菜肴也会让口味偏淡的葡萄酒食之无味。干葡萄酒如果配着甜点一起喝就会发酸，而红葡萄酒如果和鱼配在一起就会有股鱼味儿。搭配得当的葡萄酒和菜肴让人难以忘怀：比如腰花配顶级勃艮第红葡萄酒配，二者相得益彰，令人回味；白葡萄酒酱汁浸鳎目鱼配优质勃艮第白葡萄酒；甜橙蛋奶酥和伊甘葡萄酒（译注十二）。还有一些简单有效的搭配，比如烈性红葡萄酒和重口味的奶酪，白葡萄酒和牡蛎，红葡萄酒和炖牛肉，冰镇的桃红葡萄酒和冷餐肉。
葡萄酒中的学问值得用一生去探求，唯一可行的学习方法就是从现在开始品酒，赏酒，比较酒的种类，年份，以及葡萄酒和菜肴之间一些特定的搭配。
所有主菜菜谱中都会推荐相配的葡萄酒，在这里我们也相应地列出了一些公认的妙搭。这本书是关于法式烹饪的，所以我们主要介绍法国葡萄酒。
The best known of these are probably the Sauternes, the greatest of which is Chateau d' Yquem. They may range from noble and full bodied to relatively light, depending on the vineyard and vintage.
Sweet wllite wines are too often neglected. Those of good quality can be magnificent with dessert mousses, creams, souffles, and cakes. And a fine Sauternes is delicious with foie gras or a pate of chicken livers. In the old days sweet wines were drunk with oysters. 
甜白葡萄酒（不是香槟酒）
这类葡萄酒中最著名的是苏玳（苏特恩）甜白葡萄酒，而其中最出众的当属伊甘葡萄酒。根据酒庄和年份的不同，可能是贵腐酒，也可能是重酒体或较轻酒体的葡萄酒。
甜白葡萄酒常会被人遗忘，其实品质出众的甜白葡萄酒跟甜点是绝佳的搭配，例如慕斯，奶油，舒芙厘和蛋糕等等。优质的苏玳葡萄酒跟鹅肝或鸡肝馅饼配在一起特别美味。过去甜葡萄酒还常常用来跟牡蛎搭配。
Typical examples are Alsatian Riesling, Muscadet, Sancerre, and usually Pouilly.Fume, Pouilly.Fuisse, and Chablis. Local wines, vim du pays, often fall into this category. Serve with oysters, cold shellfish, boiled shellfish, broiled fish, cold meats, egg dishes, and entrees. 
低度干白葡萄酒
葡萄酒的酿造方法及制作步骤这类酒最典型的包括阿尔萨斯（地区）雷司令葡萄酒，麝香干白葡萄酒，桑赛尔白葡萄酒，普伊芙美白葡萄酒，普伊富塞白葡萄酒和夏布利白葡萄酒。产区酒，也叫乡土葡萄酒，往往也划归此类。
这类葡萄酒常跟牡蛎，冷贝类，煮贝类，烤鱼，冷肉，蛋类菜肴和主菜等一同上桌。
White Burgundy, Cotes du Rhone, and the dry Graves are examples. Serve witll fish, poultry, and veal in cream sauces. White Burgundy can also be drunk with foie gras, and it is not unheard of to serve a Meursault with Roquefort cheese. 

版权声明：本站内容均来自互联网，仅供演示用，请勿用于商业和其他非法用途。如果侵犯了您的权益请与我们联系QQ:729038198，我们将在24小时内删除。